Ganukita is what the local folks refer to the state of Terengganu; directly translated, meaning ‘Our Terengganu’. Terengganu overlooks the South China Sea, which makes driving through its towns and villages, which are mostly located on its coast, not only interesting but refreshing and breathtaking. Its 244 km coastline is endowed with numerous beaches of white sand, clear and water. From Kuala Lumpur, it took under 4 hours to make my first stop, in Kemanan. I won’t miss baked crabs whenever I arrived in Kemaman, or is it Chukai?
Since my destination was Perhentian Island, I've to stop in Kuala Terengganu for the rest of the afternoon, after driving for almost 6 hours; and decided to stay for the night in a small fishing town of Marang. Afternoon tea in the local coffee shop is ideal to observe what went on. Tea was sata and keropok lekor. Sata is an interesting blend of succulent boneless fish marinated in spices, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over charcoal fire. Its sweet taste is tinged with the delicate aroma of the wrapping, making it a great appetizer and healthy snack. Keropok is another popular snack made of fish, ground to paste, mixed with, I think, tapioca flour; done either thin and crispy, or a bit soft and chewy called lekor. Both types are deep fried, served with its special chilli dip.
When the fishermen are not in the sea, the most popular afternoon activities in the villages would be socialising at the local coffee shops to either watch series of music videos of Indonesian dangdut music or playing a game of local chess. My translation of dangdut music is an Indian bollywood music improvised to local flavours, with lyrics either in Indonesian or Malaysian Language.
Since my destination was Perhentian Island, I've to stop in Kuala Terengganu for the rest of the afternoon, after driving for almost 6 hours; and decided to stay for the night in a small fishing town of Marang. Afternoon tea in the local coffee shop is ideal to observe what went on. Tea was sata and keropok lekor. Sata is an interesting blend of succulent boneless fish marinated in spices, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over charcoal fire. Its sweet taste is tinged with the delicate aroma of the wrapping, making it a great appetizer and healthy snack. Keropok is another popular snack made of fish, ground to paste, mixed with, I think, tapioca flour; done either thin and crispy, or a bit soft and chewy called lekor. Both types are deep fried, served with its special chilli dip.
When the fishermen are not in the sea, the most popular afternoon activities in the villages would be socialising at the local coffee shops to either watch series of music videos of Indonesian dangdut music or playing a game of local chess. My translation of dangdut music is an Indian bollywood music improvised to local flavours, with lyrics either in Indonesian or Malaysian Language.
I’ve acquired another skill and good at it, after years of travelling alone i.e . being a good eavesdropper! Seated near a table of six men, pretending to read texts from the mobile, I heard discussions on what they were watching on tv, Indonesian music video. While watching mostly female singers’ video clips, discussions by the audience evolved from the singers’ life history, whom they are or were married to; and which part of Indonesia they live! Did I say that those dangdut singers are mostly female? They would sway their bodies; covered in tight fitting outfits, movements to me, appeared very provocative and sensual with several 180 degree turns, to show their backs to the audience, continued to shake and sway in what they called grudi while making a complete 360 degree turn. Such movements were not normally performed during public concerts as they appeared to be too sensual; but nothing will stop those coffee shop operators from playing those ‘sexy’ music videos.
While activities for children, will include playing on the beach or horseback riding, especially in Kuala Terengganu.
Breakfast in the East Coast for me has to be nasi dagang (translated as trader’s rice). This famous dish is synonymous with the East Coast and can be found almost everywhere in Terengganu. It is a mixture of normal with glutinous rice eaten with a variety of aromatic curries and dishes. The most popular accompaniment, which is also my favourite, is a spicy tuna curry and vegetable pickles.
While activities for children, will include playing on the beach or horseback riding, especially in Kuala Terengganu.
Breakfast in the East Coast for me has to be nasi dagang (translated as trader’s rice). This famous dish is synonymous with the East Coast and can be found almost everywhere in Terengganu. It is a mixture of normal with glutinous rice eaten with a variety of aromatic curries and dishes. The most popular accompaniment, which is also my favourite, is a spicy tuna curry and vegetable pickles.
It took less than 2 hours from Kuala Terengganu to Kuala Besut. There are several places for you to leave your cars under covered car parks which will charge you for RM7 a day near Kuala Besut Jetty. The only way to get to Perhentian Island is by sea, where boat services are available at the Jetty. Many tour operators are available at Kuala Besut to give information on how to get boat transfers, the accommodations and activities on the Island. Boat ride to the island takes about 1/2 hour, operating from 9.00a.m to 5.00p.m. Perhentian Island consists of Pulau Perhentian Besar (Big Island) and Pulau Perhentian Kecil (Small Island).
The name 'Perhentian' actually means 'stopover' resulting from fishermen using the islands as a resting point. The only place occupied by the local is a small community fishing village on Perhentian Kecil. The rest of the islands are uninhabited, with the exception of the resorts scattered around the fringing beaches. Inlands, the islands are covered in thick jungle. 
My choice to stay for a week was the Watercolours Paradise Resort, having known Mike and his wife Nor, who are managing the resort. Actually they offer a choice of accommodation on both islands. Impiani Resort, located on the Perhentian Kecil and Watercolour (formerly known as Paradise) Resort, which is located on the Perhentian Besar. There are plenty of activities to keep you occupied during your stay. Snorkelling, jungle trekking and scuba diving are popular pastimes. It is even possible to catch a water taxi and laze on a deserted beach for the day. There are dive sites around both of these islands and other nearby small islands. The surrounding waters of Perhentian contain some of the best dive sites of peninsula Malaysia and the South China Sea. Diving is easy, with many dive sites (wreck dives and reef dives) to choose from. Because most of the dive sites are within the Marine Park, the corals are in good condition and the fish-life abundant. The diving season in Peninsula Malaysia runs from February to the end of November.
Terengganu's vast hinterland of virgin rainforests offers yet another point of interest to nature lovers. There is a multi-tiered waterfalls, the Chemerong Waterfall, nestled in a 130 million year old jungle, just 15 km away from 1,300 year old chengal tree, claimed to be the oldest in the world. There is Kenyir Lake, Sekayu Waterfall and part of the National Park and several limestone caves await my next visit to the state.
I wish to acknowledge my friend, Mike Soh, his wife Nor, Asiah and members of staff at the Watercolours Paradise Resort www.watercoloursworld.com for their kind hospitality and generosity, not forgetting Chef Soong for the lovely meals! Thank you all.
Jaina Ibrahim
Terengganu's vast hinterland of virgin rainforests offers yet another point of interest to nature lovers. There is a multi-tiered waterfalls, the Chemerong Waterfall, nestled in a 130 million year old jungle, just 15 km away from 1,300 year old chengal tree, claimed to be the oldest in the world. There is Kenyir Lake, Sekayu Waterfall and part of the National Park and several limestone caves await my next visit to the state.
I wish to acknowledge my friend, Mike Soh, his wife Nor, Asiah and members of staff at the Watercolours Paradise Resort www.watercoloursworld.com for their kind hospitality and generosity, not forgetting Chef Soong for the lovely meals! Thank you all.
Jaina Ibrahim
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